Zach's Pages

Thursday, October 31, 2013

Best5Zach's Ruger 10/22 Build Part 2

In case you missed it, Part 1 of my Ruger 10/22 build can be found here.

So far, we have added a BSA Sweet 22 scope and a Ruger BX25 25-round magazine. The only issue we have had was with the BX25, which had feeding issues. It was fixed as per my Light Firearm Repair post

Since then, not much has been done, but we did do a few things that I wanted to talk about.

After shooting my dad's 10/22, I noticed that the action on my gun was a little stiff. Truth is, I didn't do anything to the gun before I shot it but pull it out of the box. Additionally, I hadn't cleaned it in over 200-300 rounds. So, I took the opportunity to clean it with Metalloid's Gun Green Oil and Metcor 57. Not only do these products clean terrifically, they are easy to work with, good for the environment, and greatly eased the action of the rifle. You can read my review of these products here

So, the next thing this gun needed was a sling. The gun doesn't come with sling mounts, so I had to purchase and install these. 

I purchased the mounts and the sling at Academy. The mounts cost me $15 and are specifically made for the 10/22, though I don't really know what that means other than the package has an additional part to mount to the fore end. 

I bought the cheapest sling that Academy had, which was a house brand, for $9. 

I chucked the gun into my vice with a towel around it to keep it from getting scratched. 


For the fore end, I simply had to loosen the fastener on the stock and slip in the piece and re-tighten. 
On the stock end, I followed the direction on the included paper. But, there are some additional tricks you may wish to employ. After locating where you want the mount to be, which they suggest 2-3 inches from the butt-stock, lay down a piece of tape. Remeasure and make sure you have it located correctly. I used a straightedge to located the center-line of the stock and location of the mounting hole. This will provide protection from accidentally marring the surface if your drill bit slips or chatters. It will also prevent cracking at the hole when you pull the drill bit out. I drilled the pilot hole to the proper depth, as instructed. I did this by measuring the proper depth onto the drill bit and then using masking tape to denote this depth. When the tape was even with the stock, I quit drilling. I did the same with the secondary hole. Make sure you use compressed air to liberate any wood chips. Additional wood chips in the hole could cause the fastener to get off center or even crack the stock. 

I eased the fastener into the hole and tightened down as per the instructions. Remember not to over tighten as that could cause cracking.


I then attached the D-rings and threaded on the sling. It takes under 15 minutes even with my additional steps. Done. Works and looks great!


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